Cover image courtesy of Penguin Random House, background image courtesy of William Finnegan

What I learned from reading “Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life” and it wasn’t how to surf.

I recently finished reading William Finnegan’s incredible and Pulitzer award winning book Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life. A book that stuck with me between readings and even now after having turned the final page. First, let me preface this by saying I am NOT a surfer. And certain I will never become one. My one experience with a board and the ocean was from a brief windsurfing lesson by my brother at the Jersey shore. (I know, I know, surfers will scold me right away for that transgression on many levels). All the same, that was a short lived excursion into the world of riding waves that ended as quickly as it began thanks to my lack of athletic ability. Now, I’m not saying I won’t ever try to learn. But let’s be realistic and keep that notion for a Hawaiian vacation. I’ll forever be a kook as they say.

As an East Coaster turned Californian, I’ve always admired surfing and surf culture. Growing up in Pennsylvania, surf culture even reached those land locked shores. I mean, who didn’t look cool in a pair of OP shorts and a pair of custom vans? But I digress. I’ll resign myself to surf vicariously through friends and reading about it. From the celebration of the surfing life in Finnegan’s book I took away larger life lessons. I’d like to share those with you. Apologies in advance to Mr. Finnegan as I certainly don’t want to impose my personal take away upon his award winning work. I also won’t be using the themes to help cope with our particular Covid times. There’s plenty written and better said in that vein. The lessons taken away from the book are timeless to be sure.

Finnegan organized the book around specific surfing eras of his life. His youth in Hawaii and Southern California to the search for the perfect wave across the South Pacific. Time spent teaching in apartheid era South Africa then moving to San Francisco becoming an Ocean Beach local to his later adult life in New York City. He acknowledges going between the surfing world and the “real” world that the draw of the ocean was never far away. I love that he mentions any vacation ends up being a surf trip in some manner. Surfing is important and relevant throughout his life. A passion may not have to be the focus of your efforts at all times but it can give you direction and context. He depicts a complex relationship with surfing. In fact, many times in the book he leaves surfing behind only to return to it eventually. There is that old adage of do what you love and you’ll never work a day. The author proves that out in a way when he ends up writing about surfing for a magazine early on in his life and then later does an in-depth profile on a surfing companion for the New Yorker. That being said he proves himself as a writer and journalist on other more serious subjects and is best known for his expertise in those areas not as a “surf writer”. Much of his life was filled with other interests and pursuits. Surfing well may have opened the doors to those interests but it wasn’t necessarily the singular motivation.

Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life reveals that your passion may lead to a vocation and your vocation may become further enriched by your passion. Give yourself the freedom to walk away from either. Be true to yourself and don’t let a lifestyle or job define you. Don’t ever apologize for your own ambition or let others define your meaning of success. When it comes to a hobby, sport, or activity that you love, enjoy it seriously. Research, prepare, and work at it as you would any endeavor. Even though it’s something you do for enjoyment, practice and continual growth is important. From Finnegan’s quest for the perfect wave he learned to plan and be patient. And from that kind of pursuit, failure and frustration are inevitable. Accept what is in front of you versus your ideal. Be open to new plans and you may stumble upon perfection. Should you achieve that “perfect wave” allow yourself to enjoy the moment then prepare to move on.

Be accepting of yourself, others, and what the universe has in store. Control what you can control. Be ready to “surf” what you can’t control. Look for the patterns that may lead to your success driven by data, experience, and even your gut. Push yourself into dangerous territory. Don’t be foolhardy or arrogant. Respect fear. Respect nature. Don’t forget the importance of family and how your personal ambitions can co-exist.

Directly and indirectly related to surfing the author was able to travel extensively. This is an important point. Not everyone will be able to be as widely traveled but that doesn’t limit how far you can travel in your mind. It’s the exposure to other cultures and mindsets that expand your horizon. We are all better when we understand the point of view of someone else especially from a different culture. Lastly, grasp the freedom to enjoy happiness in whatever ways you may find it.

I guess the simple takeaway is to always be in pursuit of the perfect wave and enjoy the journey as much as that singular perfect ride.

Embrace your Barbarian Days.